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Snæfellsnes, Iceland · 2022

The Black Church

The black church at Búðir against the stark Icelandic landscape. Dramatic skies, volcanic rock, and the kind of isolation that strips everything down to essentials.

On the rocks — wide landscape, Búðir Iceland

Without the Spiritual Fathers.

The story of Búðakirkja begins with Steinunn Sveinsdóttir — a woman who, in 1703, petitioned the King of Denmark for permission to rebuild a church on the Búðir lava fields after the original had fallen into ruin.

Standing left, Búðir
Standing center, Búðir
Standing right, Búðir

One High-Powered Woman

The local clergy had abandoned the site. The bishop saw no reason to rebuild. But Steinunn — a landowner, a widow, a woman of means and will — went over their heads. She wrote directly to the king.

He granted her request. The church was rebuilt in 1703, funded entirely by Steinunn herself, without a single króna from the church establishment.

The inscription above the door reads: "The church is raised with no subsidy from the spiritual fathers, by Steinunn Sveinsdóttir."

Walking through the church door
The church is raised with no subsidy from the spiritual fathers, by Steinunn Sveinsdóttir
Búðir black church — wide landscape
Portrait at Búðir
Portrait at Búðir
Perfume portrait, Búðir

January 2022. Snæfellsnes, Iceland.