Manila, Philippines · 2023
Majesty in Manila
Color, chaos, and composition in one of Southeast Asia's most vibrant cities. Street-level portraits that capture the energy of Manila's cultural collision.
Photography by MD Madrigal
The Philippines.
Over 7,640 islands, hundreds of cultures, and a reputation for warmth that precedes any introduction. I know the Philippines through video games, specifically Dota 2 and Axie Infinity. My years as an esports commentator gave me a front row seat to the Filipino love for competition.
In the blockchain world, Filipino players consistently comprised the majority of Axie Infinity's active users. That community is what brought me to Manila for an extended stay, but I wanted to see beyond the Bonifacio Global City bubble.
A local named Max took me on an adventure through the city, ending in the Vitas Katuparan Housing Project in Tondo.
A stop in the park
With Kids So Profound
Our journey began in the middle of the city near one of the busiest transit depots in the entire country.
As we entered the park, there was a cluster of families on cardboard boxes with kids that lit up when they saw our camera.
The girl in the black top was among the most excited, jumping right into her most proud outfit and running over to pose without a moment's hesitation.
She spoke no English, and we shared no words; but, her energy was infectious as we turned the park into our own fashion runway.
Barangay 94 Basketball
After feeling the flurry of commerce, we went into a barangay to find a taste of the favored Filipino past time: basketball.
Our guide took us to Barangay 94, which touts a covered and neatly kept court deep inside its dense housing. Locals gather for daily matches, generally playing for cash in full court, first to 25.
Its equipped with referees that keep the tension level. Some of these players were wagering their food money and hoping to double down. The reality of zero-sum sports is often harsh and humbling. Without officials it would surely devolve into physical chaos.
The court was led by an older gentleman that everyone seemed to respect. He directed the flow of events and made sure the money was paid out to the proper winners. Each match included a small rake for the court and commission to the referee.
The competition was fierce, but there was a general respect for the rules. It was remarkable to observe that some of the best players in our match were without shoes, playing completely barefoot on concrete that was chipped and uneven. Some were even playing in flip-flops, crossing over without skipping a beat.
I had over a foot on some of these kids and they ran circles around me. In our full court match I ended with 1 assist, 1 rebound, and 0 buckets. Somehow we still won.
Nepomuceno Street Pool
Still dripping from basketball in the 85% humidity, we found our way into a street pool game with a group of highly competitive youngsters. They were eager to challenge me and see if they can win bragging rights and a couple of pesos.
The game felt similar to pool, except on a much smaller table and with disks instead of balls. The disks were flimsy and would fly away if you hit them too hard. It was a game of finesse. One where you have to channel the advice of the late great Chubbs, and just tap it in.
A natural director
Fearless & Steady
But one kid in particular stood out of the pack; he was brave and outgoing, eager to insert himself as my personal coach throughout the game.
His expectations were high, pointing to different corners of the board on each shot expecting me to make it each time.
After a few particularly bad shots in a row, he looked at me and paused dramatically before bellowing a candid, "what the fuck, man?"
Vitas Katuparan Housing Project in Tondo
As we approached darker alleyways of stacked up housing an older gentleman approached us rather aggressively. He wasn't intimidating, but his energy was clear. He didn't want us to venture any further.
After a few minutes of much back and forth, he surprisingly shook hands with our guide and let us be. Max explained that he was actually trying to look out for us. He didn't realize Max was a local and wanted to make sure we knew what lied ahead.
Tondo has a very high population density. The streets are lined with thick power cables running in every direction, feeding survival for hundreds of families living in single units. Personal space is a great luxury.
A few local kids followed us and joined in on the adventure, excited to explore something out of the norm.
Seeing fans with love
Closer to sunset, we found ourselves on a bridge overlooking the Estero De Vitas rivers to snap a few photos.
Suddenly one of the cars on the bridge slammed their brakes and pulled over right in front of us. A starry eyed Axie fan hopped out and came running over to us.
His comrades were close to follow, two of them with their phones out to document the experience. They couldn't believe that they spotted us in the wild, especially in that part of Manila.
Upon sunsets unimaginable
And night times serene
For a journey complete
Our final destination took us to the high traffic subway route near Manila City Hall. This area is commonly used by students and was severely dilapidated for many years.
Poorly lit and water damaged, students would put their heads down and trek through as quickly as they could. However, the former Mayor of Manila took note.
He rehabilitated the area and transformed it with murals that feel almost like a walking tour of Filipino history.
He who does not know how to look back at where he came from will never get to his destination.
— José Rizal
Ang Bagong Maynila
Photography by MD Madrigal. September 2022, Manila.